How to Make an Inexpensive and Highly Functional "Smurf" Tube to Hide TV Cables 

Why

Cables and cords hanging down from your TV, whether they're power cables, HDMI, cable TV/internet, etc. are just ugly. They take away from the crisp, clean look of a wall-mounted flat-screen. This guide will help you install a great way to hide all those cables that will cost less than the off-the-shelf options at the store.

This method works best if you're still in the construction phase, whether it's a new home, finishing a basement, or doing a remodel, but could also be used on an existing wall if you're willing to cut out the drywall to install and then repair the drywall afterwards. 

How

Here's what you'll need: 

1. 1.25” PVC pipe (as long as needed)
2. 1.25” PVC pipe union (1)
3. 18 gauge / "1 gang" electrical boxes (2)
4. PVC pipe glue
5. Hole-saw (1 3/4”) 
6. Drill (cordless or corded)
7. Saw (or other way to cut PVC pipe and union)
8. Flexible Opening Wall Plates (2)

Note: the links for the items above are "affiliate" links. If you use them I earn a small commission.  Thank you! If you find a better product than what I have listed above, great! Feel free to send me a link if you feel like it would be beneficial to others. 

What it Will Look Like:

All put together before the drywall is installed:

Note that I did the wiring in my basement so I installed an outlet at the top behind where the TV will be mounted) and at the bottom (for any devices like an Apple TV or other). That means the tube will likely only be used for an HDMI cable. But, 10 years ago it likely would have been for a DVD player and who knows what we'll need 10 years from now, right?

Top box with union cemented on to keep it from falling through:

Note the drywall screw on the left helping to secure the box to the wooden stud. 

Bottom box. Note the absence of a union (not needed) and the drywall screw to help attach the box to the stud. White shavings are from cutting the PVC pipe. 

Step-by-Step

Note: These instructions assume you already have access to the 2x4 (or similar) wall studs behind the drywall (as is usually the case with new construction or remodeling projects). If this is not your situation, you'll either need to cut a hole in the drywall where the boxes and tube are going and replace the drywall when you're done or consider a different option such as mounting a conduit (like this one: Legrand Wiremold CordMate II Cord Cover 5 ft. Channel, Cord Hider for Home or Office, Holds 3 Cables, White C50 - The Home Depot) on the exterior of the wall. 

Step 1: Drill holes in Electrical Boxes

For this step you'll need your drill, 1 3/4" hole-saw, and your two electrical boxes. First, remove a nail from one end of the box by pulling it out. If it's hard to do this by hand, try using a pair of pliers to help grip the nail head. 

Next, if you have a vice or other way to hold the electrical box steady while drilling, place the box in the vice. Another alternative to hold the box steady is to use a C-clamp or other clamp to temporarily fasten it to a stud or other stable surface. Attach the hole-saw to the drill and center the saw on the end of the box where you removed the nail. I find that applying as little pressure as possible to get started and adding pressure gradually helps the saw to cut a groove into the soft plastic and avoid "dancing" all over as I try to drill the hole in. Don't be alarmed if there's a slight smell of melting plastic. 

Once you've cut the hole in the first box, remove a nail from the second box. Be sure to remove the nail on the side that is opposite of the side you pulled the nail off of the first box. You want the drilled hole to be on the "bottom" of one box and on the "top" of the other box so the tube can connect them. Secure the second box and drill the hole.

See the videos below for more help on using a hole-saw.

Step 2: Mount Electrical Boxes

Now you need to mount the electrical boxes at the positions where you'll want to use them. The top box should, ideally, be behind where the TV will be mounted on the wall. This will hide the cable exit. The bottom box needs to be located directly beneath the top box, preferably on the same wooden stud (and the same side of the stud). I recommend mounting the bottom box at the same height as any electrical outlets in the room just for the sake of uniformity and ease of hiding the bottom box behind things like a short electronics cabinet. 

To mount the electrical boxes, position the boxes on the stud to which you're going to mount them with the nail point facing the wood. Two small tabs on that side of the box indicate how far out from the stud the box should sit in order to match the drywall (usually 1/2 inch). Holding the box in this position, hammer the nail into the stud. See the video below for more help on this.

Normally, you'd have a second nail on the other end of the box to finish mounting it to the stud, but you most likely cut off the little tabs that hold the nail in place on that side, and anyway you've got a hole there for a tube and the nail would be in the way. Instead, use a wood or drywall screw (either is fine) and your drill (or a screwdriver if you skipped your last forearm workout) and finish securing the box by putting a screw through the sidewall of the box into the stud. Be sure to position the screw far enough away from the hole that it won't interfere with placing the tube. Don't overtighten the screw but be sure it is snug to the box wall. this will help to avoid potential interference with other parts of the project later.  

Step 3: Cut the Pipe and Union

Measure the distance between the holes on the two electrical boxes. If this is on a "standard" wall with an 8 foot high ceiling, it's likely that your boxes will be about 4 or 5 feet (or 48-60") apart. Take an exact measurement and add 3 or more inches to it. This is the length of PVC pipe you'll need. You want the pipe to stick through both boxes at the same time. If you try putting the pipe in and find you prefer a little less pipe sticking into the box, you can always cut off more. It's much harder to add it back on if you cut the pipe too short. 

Cut the PVC pipe to the length you calculated using your preferred method. PVC is a relatively soft material, so you can use a variety of tools to cut it. An electrical miter or "chop" saw (often used for cutting wood studs) works well, so does a "saw-zaw" (reciprocating saw), or a hand-saw, etc. Try to cut the end relatively square, but if it's not perfect, don't worry. 

Next, cut the union down to a reasonable length (probably an inch or so). Be careful while making both cuts. I recommend securing the piece you're cutting and always using all the cutter's safety features like guards and wearing proper safety gear like safety glasses, gloves, etc. 

Step 4: Dry-fit the Pipe and Union Between the Boxes

Insert the end of the pipe into one box. Push it all the way until it hits the end that isn't cut. Next insert the other end of the pipe into the hole in the other box. You should be able to hold the pipe so about an inch or so extends into each box. Try sliding the cut union over the pipe inside the top box. 

If everything fits well, you can remove the union. Leave the pipe inside the box. 

Step 5: Apply the PVC Cement

I recommend wearing gloves and opening a window (or providing other ventilation) while using PVC cement. Ensure the PVC pipe is up through the hole inside the top box. Using the brush attached to the lid of the PVC cement, apply a coat of cement to either the inside of the union or the outside of the PVC pipe inside the top box. Push the union onto the top of the pipe until it is close to matching the top edge of the PVC pipe and the top of the union. Hold the pipe up so the weight of the pipe doesn't pull it out of the union (probably about 30 seconds to 1 minute). Once the cement has set, the union will prevent the pipe from falling down. About an inch of pipe should be protruding into both the top and the bottom boxes. 

Step 6: Attach Wall Plates (after drywall and paint have been installed)

Nothing more has to be done until the drywall has been installed and the wall has been textured and painted. Once that is done, attach the wall plate covers to the electrical boxes using the provided screws. Now you can push any cable you want discrete access to through the tube to connect to your TV! 

Congratulations on saving some money and making your home look more professional!

How: Video

INSERT MY YOUTUBE VIDEO HERE

Here are a couple videos that might be helpful on some of the steps: